Ciao bello, Ciao bella,
This year, I’m finishing my masters, and just before I started my internship, I went to Rome with my loved one for a long weekend. We explored the city with seven hills. We walked for 15miles every day, and ate for 3 to complete our exploration of the city, obviously.
It was my second time in Rome. And this time, I was better acknowledged as to where we should stay, the answer : in the Trastevere. We booked an airbnb that was 3min away from the animated part of the neighbourhood, and about 20min walk from the historical centre. We barely took the metro, which was perfect. We could start our days early and come back late afternoon, rest and go out again for drinks and dinner.
M A G N I F I C A
- What to discover in the historic centre:
•SUPPLIZIO, Street Food
Supplizio’s specialty is supplì. They are fried rice bowls. 3€ the piece, it’s a must-try of Rome. They have a cheesy heart and a proper crispy skin. You can choose your flavour : tomato, basil and mozzarella, funghi (mushroom), carbonara or cacio e pepe (my favourite). It is not what you can call healthy, but it’s divine. We came across other supplì in Rome, as it’s a local thing, but no one does it better than Supplizio.
In Supplizio, you can also try some craft beers, which are really trendy at the moment in the capital.
•DON NINO, ice creams
Pistacchio ice cream is A M A Z I N G. Full stop.
• IL FORNO, Campo di FIORI
The bakery is located on Piazza Campo di Fiori, where there is a big daily market. We tried the apricot Crostata. Yummy.
(Oh and by the way, I couldn’t avoid eggs during the weekend. That was pretty impossible when eating out. But I think now that when travelling, you shouldn’t put too much pressure on yourself, you do your best, and treat yourself, no stress.)
Places to visit, different from the classic antique sites.
Le Palazzo Pamphilj, with paintings by the Caravaggio or Filippo Lipi. A jewel!
Trevi Fountain, finally renovated.
Le palazzo Colonna, only open to visits on Saturdays morning. Splendid.Piazza Navona, a must see. One of the most famous piazza of Rome, with three fountains by Bernini.
Criss-crossing the little streets around the Pantheon, we came across gigantic lemons. We thought they were fake, but then we saw some on lemon trees in the Villa Borghese. A good start to make Limoncello, don’t you think?
2. Piazza di Spagna & Villa Borghese
The Lake at the Villa Borghese
Piazza di Spagna, climb the steps and you will have one of the greatest view of Rome.
EATALY, the premium distributor
Take a small digression by EATALY, by the Termini Station. It’s a supermarket that managed to brand Italy’s regions. Using Slow Food and the beauty of every region, Eataly exports now the colours of Italian gastronomy. We started with a coffee and a chinotto (a bitter orange soda) and we ended up having lunch there. The meat was beautiful. The products were really good. It’s a bit expensive, but you pay for the genius of the brand.
3. The BEST pizzas by the Vatican : BONCI
In BONCI, you choose your pizza and you pay to the weight. The pizza base is crispy and light. The garnishes are very original, and that makes the trick. I tried two, one with fresh ricotta, spicy salami, almonds, and another one with kale and sun tomatoes. They are on Deliveroo: that moment when you wish you lived in Rome.
They also do bakery, just saying.
4. In the TRASTEVERE
Thanks to the advice of a friend, we went to Tonarello for dinner. It was a 5min wald from our airbnb, and it was delicious. You are welcome in a joyful atmosphere, with a sampling of Prosecco and loads of smiles. The bottle of Nero D’Avola, a Sicilian wine is 18€! And food was delicous. The pizze were Romanian style : crispier, more square. Pasta are great too. Portions are way too big, but the prices aren’t. You simply have to go.
It’s more traditional, waiters were taught the French way. We finally tried the fried artichoke we saw on several occasions. Amazing: you eat all of the artichoke, from the crispy leaves to the soft heart. It’s called Carciofo, absolutely loved it.
We also came for the Cacio e pepe, supposed to be the best in Rome. They were scrumptious, good amount of pepper, and served in a parmesan plate. WAIT WHAT? Tons and tons of cheese, least to say I have eaten back the amount of cheese I didn’t have for 6 months.
We had white wine, the name caught us: Pecorino. 16€ the bottle. Fantastic and worth it!
• HYBRIS, a hipster art gallery
Last but not least, we ended our trip in the Surrealist art Gallery. Weird and cosy at the same time. It was pretty cool. It’s also a coffee shop, sort of, the coffee isn’t great, but the recipes are original. We had a Focaccia with ham and a fig chutney. The hot chocolate was very good too. It’s a nice change from the very traditional places you have in Rome. I hope you got a nice taste of the places to go, more about what to eat than what to visit but eh, you have guides for this. Though for me, the best way to feel the atmosphere of the city is still to get lost walking in its streets.